I woke up early in the cool, quiet town of Chiang Rai, Thailand, and rented a scooter for 24 hours at just 150 Thai Baht ($4.39 USD). My destination? The misty mountains of Doi Mae Salong. I’ll admit, I was a little nervous about the two-hour ride—driving on the left side of the road was a new challenge, and memories of the chaotic Bangkok traffic didn’t help calm my nerves. But as I hit the winding, twisty roads, my apprehension melted away. The journey was breathtaking—every turn revealed a new view more stunning than the last. So, why was I venturing into these serene northern mountains? One word: tea
Doi Mae Salong is one of Thailand’s most famous tea regions, drawing visitors from around the world for its scenic plantations, tea-tasting experiences, and unique blends. The tea industry has not only preserved traditional farming methods but also provided economic stability to the area. Tea cultivation in Doi Mae Salong began with the arrival of Yunnanese immigrants, who brought their expertise in tea farming and processing. The mountainous terrain and cool climate of the region provided ideal conditions for growing high-quality tea.
The shift from opium farming to tea cultivation was encouraged by the Thai government in the late 20th century as part of a broader initiative to eradicate opium production in the Golden Triangle. This transition significantly improved the local economy and sustainability of the area.
The Yunnanese Connection
Historical Roots: Doi Mae Salong is home to descendants of Chinese Nationalist (Kuomintang) soldiers who fled to Thailand after the Chinese Civil War in the 1940s and 1950s. These soldiers originally settled in Myanmar before relocating to Thailand, with the Thai government allowing them to settle in Doi Mae Salong in exchange for their support in combating Communist insurgents in the region.
The Chinese settlers brought their rich Yunnanese culture with them, which is still evident in the area’s architecture, cuisine, and traditions. You’ll find delicious Yunnan-style dishes like steamed buns, noodles, and Yunnan hot pot in local restaurants. My favorite was the tea leaves salad.
The Chinese settlers transformed Doi Mae Salong into a tea-growing region, introducing high-quality oolong tea varieties, such as Jin Xuan (Milk Oolong) and Dong Ding (Frozen Summit).
The region is also home to several hill tribe groups, including the Akha and Lahu people. These communities contribute to the area’s vibrant culture through traditional crafts, textiles, and festivals.
The blend of Chinese and Thai influences is evident in Doi Mae Salong’s tea shops, temples, and daily life. Local markets sell a mix of Chinese herbs, Thai spices, and handmade crafts, reflecting the unique identity of the region.
The annual tea-tasting festival celebrates the region’s tea heritage, drawing visitors to sample freshly harvested teas and learn from local producers.
Symbolism of the Name
The name “Doi Mae Salong” translates to “Mountain of the Salong Mother,” adding an element of mystique and connection to nature.
Varieties Grown:
- Jin Xuan (Milk Oolong): Known for its creamy texture and subtle milky flavor, this tea is one of the most popular exports.
- Dong Ding (Frozen Summit): A traditional oolong with a robust, floral aroma and complex flavor profile.
- Green Tea and Black Tea: These varieties are also cultivated, offering a range of options for tea enthusiasts.
- Herbal Teas: Some plantations also grow herbal plants, such as mulberry leaves, which are crafted into unique infusions.
Altitude and Terroir: The high altitude (around 1,200 meters) and cool, misty conditions contribute to the delicate flavor and aroma of the teas.
My first stop was Choui Fong Tea Plantation, located near Chiang Rai. Known for its modern café setting and popularity among tourists, it offered a charming introduction to the region’s tea culture. After soaking in the lively atmosphere, I rode up into the mountains to 101 Tea Plantation—a stark contrast to my earlier stop. Not a single tourist was in sight, and the serene atmosphere made the experience even more special. The ride to this remote plantation was unforgettable, with breathtaking mountain views unfolding at every turn.
How to Brew Balled Oolong Tea
Ingredients:
- 1–2 teaspoons of balled oolong tea (about 5 grams)
- 8 ounces of water (filtered, if possible)
- Optional: A teapot or gaiwan, tea infuser, or strainer
Instructions:
- Heat the Water
- Heat water to about 185–200°F (85–93°C). Oolong tea is best brewed with water that’s hot but not boiling, as overly high temperatures can scorch the leaves.
- Rinse the Tea (Optional but Recommended)
- Place the tea in your teapot or cup and pour just enough hot water to cover the leaves.
- Swirl for about 10 seconds, then discard the water. This step wakes up the tea and cleanses the leaves.
- Brew the Tea
- Add the tea to your brewing vessel and pour in the hot water.
- Let the tea steep for 1–3 minutes, depending on your taste preference. A shorter steep yields a lighter, floral flavor, while a longer steep extracts more robust, creamy notes.
- Re-steep for Multiple Infusions
- Balled oolong is designed to be infused multiple times—each steeping reveals new flavors.
- Increase the steeping time by about 30 seconds for each subsequent brew. Some oolongs can last for 5–7 infusions!
- Enjoy Your Tea
- Sip slowly and savor the evolving flavors with each infusion.
Optional Enhancements:
- Gongfu Style Brewing: Use a gaiwan (small lidded bowl) with shorter steep times (20–30 seconds) and smaller water volumes to explore the tea’s full flavor profile.
- Milk or Honey: While traditional oolong is enjoyed plain, a touch of honey or a splash of milk complements its creamy texture.
As I rode back down the mountain, I couldn’t help but reflect on how special this journey had been. From the lively charm of Choui Fong to the peaceful solitude of 101 Tea Plantation, I’d gained a deeper appreciation for the art of tea-making and the people who dedicate their lives to it. Every sip of the local oolong tea carried the essence of these misty mountains and the rich culture that thrives here.
Now, I’m thrilled to bring a piece of this experience to you. I’ve sourced some of the finest balled oolong tea from the plantations of northern Thailand so you can enjoy its rich, buttery flavor from the comfort of your home.
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Don’t wait—bring the taste of the Thai mountains to your teacup today